Fashion Week: the magic of old Hollywood.
In early July, a high fashion reminded of the approach of autumn, the traditional holiday arranging tailor’s art in Paris. Members of the Week Haute Couture presented demanding guests handcrafted collection autumn-winter 2013-14. Rich magnificent parade schedule and the huge public interest in the event confirmed the viability of fashion to haute couture.
By tradition, opened the Paris Fashion Week show Aterlier Versace. The show started howling wolf. Glided down the catwalk Naomi Campbell in a jacket, which kept only the crystal hooks underneath for graceful body – black lace bra and shiny strip on the hips. The inspiration for the new job Donatella served as the black-and-white photographs of the thirties, shot by Horst and Man Ray. As the designer herself said, “then, in the black and white era everything was perfect – photos, lighting, hair, makeup, everything was brought to perfection.”
A dazzling collection could not be accused of a lack of work:
crystal buckles, anatomical seams on dresses, elaborately embroidered bustier, finishing in the most delicate sequins lace, braided knit mink. All models are decorated with jewelry from Versace’s glamorous old Hollywood style with genuine diamonds. Uma Thurman, Emma Roberts and Zachary Quinto looked at this luxury of sitting in the front row. The hit parade was restrained evening dress with sequined tulle illusion neckline, embroidered flame pattern of black and dark blue.
Obviously, the old Hollywood also inspired Giorgio Armani. Hairstyles by Marlene Dietrich, a neutral color palette, pearl deco glow dress silhouettes direct or extended volume, wide trousers flowing softest satin, transparency on the verge of exposure. Wavy and soft daytime outfits dissolved in a weightless quiet evening tulle and lace on the toilets smarmy suites. Extraordinary display of sensuality gave an illusion, when it was impossible to tell where the ends of neutral shades and fabric skin begins models. A collection of “pure, even from the inside, elegance.”
But perhaps the most anticipated this week was the third show of haute couture collection Raf Simons for Dior. Raf presented in his famous work The house is part of a global culture of fashion, where the Paris catwalk space combined North and South America, Asia and Africa. Updated jacket recognizable sports bar was replaced by navy jumpers, followed by Eastern tiered strapless dress and costumes in the style of a kimono. Africa was read to boldly tailored dresses, bright prints and jewelry in bulk, the Americas – in bold mixing of colors and stripes. Simons suggested that my clients the freedom to choose what to wear and freedom of how to wear it.
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“Giving freedom to the people and see what happens, brings much more satisfaction,” – he said after a brave show, adding: “If we do not adapt to the woman of modern society, fashion can disappear.”
A notable news was the return to the high fashion of the famous designer duo Victor & Rolf after thirteen break. This could not be interested followers fashion – and because half of the new conceptual collections, whose motto was “art for art”, has already been bought before the show kind of collector who wished to remain anonymous.
But the authors of the main surprise was the duo Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Picciolo submitted autumn couture Valentino. Unlike the others, this collection focuses on the daily outfits. For models of exquisite tailoring concise fashion designers have chosen excellent in all respects tissue. Double-sided cashmere etched with lion heads, laser-cut black astrakhan, embroidered with sequins, fabric that looks like silk brocade of the Ottoman Empire, but made of thin strips of raffia – all spent many hundreds of hours of manual labor. From the decor remember fixing of the 2,200 river pearls on gold threads, a mosaic of feathers and embroidered dragons on the tapestries.
Pierre and Marie have created a miracle, proving their loyalty to the fantastic work of Leonardo da Vinci’s statement that “simplicity is the ultimate point of complexity.”